perfect...thanks for the help guys!
Mr. Mike, looking forward to seeing tomorrow
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| Author: | K2KEM [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:15 am ] |
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Hi All, I'm making OM steel string, it was a kit from Lmii. The pick guard that comes with the kit is too big. I've thought of leaving it off all together but I like to strum so it's probably a good idea and it looks kind of cool. Anyway, is there any reason I shouldn't just trim down the pick guard to fit my guitar or should I purchase a smaller one? thanks for any coaching. |
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| Author: | SniderMike [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:25 am ] |
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Hi Karen!!!!!!!!!! I can't think of a reason that you shouldn't cut down the pickguard. You can also get a sheet of clear (or other colored ) material and cut out your own. I personally like the clear. See you Thurs. Mike |
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:26 am ] |
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Just go ahead and trim it to size. Many vendors sell the material in squares anyhow so you can trim it to size. If you don't like it, then you can always order something else. Cheers! John |
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| Author: | K2KEM [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:03 am ] |
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perfect...thanks for the help guys! Mr. Mike, looking forward to seeing tomorrow
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| Author: | Shane Neifer [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:10 am ] |
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Karen, I am glad you asked this question because I was wondering the other day what a pick guard does to the sound of a guitar. Logically (maybe not...) I would think it would serve to dampen the movement of the top. Is it in an area that serves little in the sound production? Any thoughts anyone? Thanks Shane |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 7:56 am ] |
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Kinkead makes pickgaurds out of hardwood, and I kind of like that look - just an alternative idea if you're going to cut one down or make your own anyway. I think a pickguard out of the same material as the headplate or the back and sides would be nice. |
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| Author: | Pwoolson [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:33 am ] |
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Hesh, where did you find that pickguard template page? I looked but couldn't find anything. |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 8:57 am ] |
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[QUOTE=ecklesweb] Kinkead makes pickgaurds out of hardwood, and I kind of like that look - just an alternative idea if you're going to cut one down or make your own anyway. I think a pickguard out of the same material as the headplate or the back and sides would be nice.[/QUOTE] Jay, do you know what thickness the hardwood pickguard should be ? What does he say in his book ? I'd really love to do that on my guitars! TIA
Serge |
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| Author: | RichB [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:22 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Pwoolson] Hesh, where did you find that pickguard template page? I looked but couldn't find anything.[/QUOTE] Pwoolson... You can find that Template here: http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=P ickguard+Material&NameProdHeader=Tor%2DTis%99+Pickguards You just have to scroll down until you get to where it says Small teardrop, Medium teardrop, D-28 etc...it's a PDF download on Pkgd sizing... |
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| Author: | ecklesweb [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:25 am ] |
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[QUOTE=Serge Poirier] Jay, do you know what thickness the hardwood pickguard should be ? What does he say in his book ? I'd really love to do that on my guitars! TIA[/QUOTE]
He says 1/16" (1.5mm). Might be easier to laminate veneers than to plane or sand a piece down to 1/16"! |
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| Author: | John Elshaw [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:26 am ] |
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For you guys that use hardwood pickguards, do you notice any difference in sound from adding the additional wood? It seems hardwood might absorb more energy than the plastic pickguards. I'm just curious. John |
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| Author: | HankMauel [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:30 am ] |
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You could also look into the myriad types of veneers for a wide selection of wood types if you want to go with a wood pick guard. They could be finished on the guitar or left until after the finish is completed, then applied and buffed out with a high bee's wax furniture polish for a natural look. My preference, for top protection/viewing the entire rosette, is the .006" clear adhesive pickguard. Easy to cut to whatever size/shape you want, leaves a clear view of all your lovely top wood/rosette yet protects the top from that erstwhile finger scratch. Here's a "how to do it" I posted many years ago...like in the LAST century!  It's pretty much along the lines of Frank Ford's instructions.
Just some notes of advice... Practice cutting out a template first. When satisfied, use it to guide your cutting of the plastic, or trace the outline onto the paper backing of the plastic and cut freehand. I do it this way and find it is easier to negotiate the inside(soundhole edge) curve on the pickguard. Cut out with real sharp hair scissors to avoid a funky edge that won't want to lie flat. Have a scrupulously clean area...guitar top, your hands, no wind currents, etc. You'll be amazed what a little spec can do under that plastic. Once cut to shape, position it as you want it. With masking tape, (2 pieces is usually enough) tape it down to the top near the waist area so as to make a "hinge". Having removed the strings before all this, fold the guard back (on the "hinge") so that the white backing paper is now facing up. With sharp finger nails, start to separate the lower edge( by the hinge) of the backing paper from the clear plastic. DON'T TOUCH THE GLUE SURFACE WITH YOUR FINGERS. It will pick up your fingerprints and they will show up once it is laid in position. Now, carefully lift the backing paper from the guard as you press up from the outside (face side) of the plastic. As you peel the backing with one hand, gently press the face side down onto the guitar top, working up toward the sound hole avoiding bubbles. The masking tape hinge holds the plastic in place as you work up and is removed when plastic is finally in place. When it is all down, rub over it with a soft towel to help it stay down. It may look a little hazy at first, but after a day or two, it will conform to any of the minute irregularities on the top surface and practically disappear. |
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 9:56 am ] |
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Good explanation Hank. I have a question. Why don't folks run the pickguard in further? I see a lot of guitars that have pick damage to the soundhole 1/2 " of unprotected top. My son sees his as a badge of honor. I see it as a mistake in manufacture. Then there's Willy. 
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| Author: | Bruce Dickey [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 10:03 am ] |
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Todd, that's a great looking guitar. And that's an expensive pickguard. Frank Ford made a cool conical tool, covered in sandpaper. It turns on a shaft. What it does is size your pickguard to the precise size of the OD of the center rosette ring. I wonder if you could heat it off, remove the sticky backing, apply new adhesive, resize and reinstall? |
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| Author: | paul harrell [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 1:44 pm ] |
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Bruce - I let clear pickguards come almost to the soundhole because of the problem you mention. I play fingerstyle and just resting my little finger on the face of the guitar eventually wears away the finish between the pickguard and the soundhole. But with regular pick guards I don't like the look of covering up the rosette - I've thought of using some of the clear material to cover the area between the sound hole and pickguard to prevent this problem - anyone ever try this? Paul Harrell |
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| Author: | HankMauel [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 2:51 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=Bruce Dickey] Good explanation Hank. I have a question. Why don't folks run the pickguard in further? I see a lot of guitars that have pick damage to the soundhole 1/2 " of unprotected top. My son sees his as a badge of honor. I see it as a mistake in manufacture. Then there's Willy. [/QUOTE]
The beauty of the clear guards is that you CAN run it up and over the rosette without obscuring the symmetry/beauty of the rosette. It's also light weight so as to minimize reduction/damping of sound wave in the top. Also, you can do irregular shapes to meet particular wear patterns of an individual player without it looking way ugly! I did one for a Pastor friend who ate holes in his top finish close to the front lower edge of the bridge...an area not covered by the "traditional" teardrop. Did sort of a "pregnant" teardrop from clear material so as to get down under the first 2 strings and up close to the bridge. Worked like a charm, almost totally invisible unless you REALLY look for it and he no longer takes divots out of the top of his instrument. As for real wood veneers, you can get them down into the range 1/24" or less in thickness, with or without preapplied adhesives. |
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| Author: | Serge Poirier [ Wed Apr 26, 2006 3:11 pm ] |
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[QUOTE=ecklesweb] [QUOTE=Serge Poirier] Jay, do you know what thickness the hardwood pickguard should be ? What does he say in his book ? I'd really love to do that on my guitars! TIA[/QUOTE]
He says 1/16" (1.5mm). Might be easier to laminate veneers than to plane or sand a piece down to 1/16"![/QUOTE] Thanks Jay, that's exactly what i thought i'd do, i bought me some nice ones that are approximately that thick from Lee Valley and a wide array to choose from, i should then be fine!  Thanks again bud!
Cheers |
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